 The classic 1997 Insignia, from the Joseph Phelps winery, is showing as well now as ever.  |
|||
Retrospective: 1997 California Cabernets
A decade down the line, the wines have reached a plateau, with many still outstanding but others mixed
Posted: Monday, January 07, 2008
By James Laube
For 25 years, senior editor James Laube has been reviewing and writing about California Cabernets for Wine Spectator. Each year, he conducts blind retrospective tastings of older vintages. In late 2007, he tasted wines from 1997, 1987 and 1977. It's a way, Laube says, to examine how California wines age and recommend when the wines are at their peak. It's also fun, he says, to find the surprises—good and otherwise—that come with cellaring wines.
From the get-go, California's 1997 Cabernets were showy wines. Tasted from barrel, they were simply fun and easy to like. (Read the current tasting notes.) Impressive in bottle, they showed ostentatiously rich fruit flavors and plush textures. In short, a sheer joy to drink. And as a group, more of them earned outstanding ratings from me on release than any previous Cabernet vintage I had tasted.
Winemakers were thrilled not only by the quality of the warm 1997 vintage, but also the size; many wineries ran out of tank space for their wines. It was the largest grape crop in California history. If there was a weak seam in the vintage, it was its size.
A decade later, the top wines are still showing exceptionally well, marrying youthful Cabernet flavors to the subtle nuances that come with age. I reviewed 89 of the 1997 Cabernets in a series of blind tastings this fall. As in any retrospective tasting, there were bound to be surprises, both good and bad.
Collectors whose cellars hold Joseph Phelps Insignia (97 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale), Mount Eden Old Vine Reserve (95), Bryant Family (94) or Chateau St. Jean Reserve (94) are in for a treat. These wines, and another dozen or so, are in great drinking form, sure to reward Cabernet lovers with ripe generous flavors and the delicate hints of spice and cedar and fleshier textures that you hope will come with age.
The Insignia showed as well as it ever has for me, and I've tasted the wine perhaps a dozen times. Mount Eden, the great Santa Cruz Mountains estate, has been a star in recent retrospectives; the '97 exhibited great concentration and depth. Bryant Family is in tip-top shape, with lively, youthful Cabernet flavors, though I've had better bottles.
Two of Sonoma's best wineries made a strong showing, offering hope for more great Cabernets from Napa's neighbor; along with the Chateau St. Jean Reserve, the Arrowood Reserve Speciale (93) was also singing. Perhaps the most striking performance came from the Clos Pegase Napa Valley Palisades Vineyard (94 now and also in 2000 when first reviewed), with its rich, fleshy mix of herbs and dark fruit.
"1997 was both remarkable and confounding," said Joseph Phelps winemaker Craig Williams, "producing grapes with the intensity of flavor and extract associated with small crop levels, yet producing one of the most abundant harvests on record." The vintage "set the standard of quality for the decade and what has materialized since," he added. "These are amazing wines that are just now coming into their own."
One sign of a vintage's success is an overall consistency, which 1997 showed in my retrospective tasting. The lion's share of the wines ranked in the very good to outstanding range, generally scoring from 87 to 95 points. Many are taking on Bordeaux-like traits of dried currant, cedar and spice, with supple textures and fine balance. About one-third were merely in the good range.
The major disappointment in my tasting had less to do with the quality of the vintage than with the condition of many bottles. After tasting all the wines (most at least twice, and some three times, for a total of 167 bottles), I found nearly a dozen wines where I felt the bottles were in too poor shape to review.
In most instances, I had had these same wines recently enough to know they can be better than the samples in my blind tastings. The most glaring example: Screaming Eagle. I've tried the 1997 six or seven times and each time it was stunning. But both of the bottles in my tasting were oxidized and devoid of fruit. The same was true with Opus One, Pride Reserve, Spottswoode, Lokoya Mount Veeder and David Arthur Elevation 1147. Having had better bottles, I simply didn't think the wines I tasted—virtually all submitted by the wineries, some in magnums—were truly representative.
The ripeness of the 1997s has always been controversial. A wine such as the Harlan Estate (88), fantastic out of barrel and on release, pushes ripeness to the edge of Port and has a racy balsamic note. In perhaps six tastings of this wine since its release, I've seen notable bottle variation, though the past few times it has shown exactly as it did in this retrospective blind tasting.
Another wine that I've had many times, the Shafer Hillside Select (91 points in this tasting) was excellent, but didn't have the stuffing it has shown on other occasions. Ditto for Araujo, Dalla Valle's two wines, Caymus Special Selection and Colgin Herb Lamb.
When I looked back at my original tasting notes from this vintage, I recommended drinking most wines early on, as in 2002 to 2012, with some as late as 2020. That said, they're mostly ready now, and, in my opinion, better sooner than later.
Auction Performance of 1997 California Cabernets
California wines have lagged behind other regions at auction during the past three years, but not 1997 Cabernets, many of which have enjoyed big gains. Not surprisingly, cult Cabs such as Bryant and Harlan have risen sharply in price. But some bargains exist—Chateau St. Jean and Robert Mondavi both scored outstanding in the retrospective tasting but are available for an average auction price well below release price, according to the Wine Spectator Auction Index.
Top 10 Percentage Gainers
| Wine | Release Price | Current Price | Change |
|---|---|---|---|
| BRYANT FAMILY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | $150 | $1,123 | +649% |
| COLGIN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Herb Lamb Vineyard 1997 | $135 | $857 | +535% |
| DALLA VALLE Maya Napa Valley 1997 | $120 | $736 | +513% |
| HARLAN ESTATE Napa Valley 1997 | $225 | $1,229 | +446% |
| WHITEHALL LANE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 1997 | $60 | $165 | +175% |
| PAHLMEYER Napa Valley 1997 | $80 | $220 | +175% |
| SHAFER Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District Hillside Select 1997 | $150 | $411 | +174% |
| PETER MICHAEL Les Pavots Knights Valley 1997 | $85 | $222 | +161% |
| WHITEHALL LANE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | $28 | $55 | +96% |
| ARAUJO Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Eisele Vineyard 1997 | $125 | $235 | +88% |
Top 10 Percentage Laggards
| Wine | Release Price | Current Price | Change |
|---|---|---|---|
| BURGESS Enveiere Napa Valley 1997 | $85 | $44 | -48% |
| CHATEAU ST. JEAN Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Reserve 1997 | $90 | $47 | -48% |
| DIAMOND CREEK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Volcanic Hill 1997 | $150 | $83 | -45% |
| SILVERADO VINEYARDS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Limited Reserve 1997 | $95 | $54 | -43% |
| FREEMARK ABBEY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Bosché Estate 1997 | $65 | $37 | -43% |
| ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 1997 | $45 | $31 | -31% |
| NIEBAUM-COPPOLA Rubicon Rutherford 1997 | $100 | $69 | -31% |
| PINE RIDGE Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 1997 | $50 | $36 | -28% |
| BACIO DIVINO Napa Valley 1997 | $75 | $55 | -27% |
| JOSEPH PHELPS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Backus Vineyard 1997 | $120 | $91 | -24% |
1997 California Cabernet Retrospective Tasting Notes
| Wine | Score | Price | |
|---|---|---|---|
| JOSEPH PHELPS Insignia Napa Valley 1997 | 97 | $120 | |
| Dense, rich and focused, youthful and concentrated, with hints of maturity on the edge of the core currant, mineral and spicy berry flavors. Wonderful vibrancy and intensity for a wine this age, which only bodes well for the future. A classic. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2020. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 20,000 cases made. |
|||
| MOUNT EDEN Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains Old Vine Reserve 1997 | 95 | $48 | |
| Aging very gracefully, with ripe, fresh currant and black cherry fruit that's elegant, supple and polished, especially the tannins. Complex and rich, with hints of hazelnut, nutmeg and fresh earth. Great length, with long engaging finish. Drink now through 2015. 407 cases made. |
|||
| BRYANT FAMILY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 94 | $150 | |
| Ripe and opulent, rich and fleshy, with lively plum and blackberry fruit that's well centered, complex and deftly balanced. Long, supple, polished finish that keeps the fruit at the center. Drink now through 2017. 1,000 cases made. |
|||
| CHATEAU ST. JEAN Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Reserve 1997 | 94 | $90 | |
| Still bold, rich, intense and concentrated, with youthful currant, black cherry, sage and cedary oak all well proportioned, tight and persistent. Ready now after decanting. Best of two bottles. Drink now through 2011. 840 cases made. |
|||
| CLOS PEGASE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Palisades Vineyard 1997 | 94 | $50 | |
| Aging very well. Rich, supple and polished, with fresh currant, herb, anise and hints of mineral, earth and tar. Balanced, focused, youthful, with depth and length. Tannins softening. Drink now through 2018. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 430 cases made. |
|||
| ARROWOOD Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Réserve Spéciale 1997 | 93 | $85 | |
| Drinking well. Smooth-textured. Excellent balance, with complex currant, black cherry, spice and subtle herb shadings. Integrated tannins and a long focused finish. Better of two bottles. Drink now through 2012. 1,611 cases made. |
|||
| CHIMNEY ROCK Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District Reserve 1997 | 93 | $80 | |
| Complex aromas of ripe plum and black cherry fruit that unfolds gracefully, maintaining its vibrancy and ending with firm ripe tannins that give it traction and length. Drink now through 2011. 736 cases made. |
|||
| LEWIS Cuvee L Napa Valley 1997 | 93 | $150 | |
| Rich and generous, firm, ripe and concentrated, focused on earthy currant, blackberry, sage, herb and mineral flavors that are long and persistent. Tannins are still potent. Best of three bottles. Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2011. 325 cases made. |
|||
| ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 1997 | 92 | $45 | |
| Elegant and stylish, with supple plum and black cherry fruit that's fleshy textured, picking up fresh herb, anise and loamy mineral flavors that give it complexity and depth. Firm tannins. Drink now through 2012. |
|||
| STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Fay 1997 | 92 | $100 | |
| Tight, young and edgy, in a good way, with rich loamy currant, herb, sage and dusty berry fruit that's focused, well proportioned, deep and persistent. Drink now through 2012. 5,186 cases made. |
|||
| SWANSON Alexis Napa Valley 1997 | 92 | $45 | |
| Smells complex and vibrant, with ripe, juicy cherry, plum and wild berry flavors that have a vivid range of flavors, ending with a long persistent aftertaste. Tasted out of a magnum. Drink now through 2011. 3,400 cases made. |
|||
| SHAFER Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District Hillside Select 1997 | 91 | $150 | |
| Aging nicely, mature yet structured, with dried currant, mineral, sage and dusty cedary oak. Keeps its focus on the core earth and currant flavors. Still deep and intense, with persistent flavors. Not up to its usual standards. Tasted twice. Drink now. 2,000 cases made. |
|||
| WHITEHALL LANE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 1997 | 91 | $60 | |
| Enticing aromas of spice, ripe currant and blackberry are focused, rich and balanced on the palate, picking up a nice touch of anise and herb, and ending with a complex aftertaste. At its peak. Drink now through 2011. 2,850 cases made. |
|||
| DUCKHORN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 90 | $45 | |
| Fresh, complex floral and fruity Cabernet aromas are a bit drier and austere, with hints of fresh leather, mineral, earth and iodine. On the finish the tannins still grip, but the fruit retains its complexity. Drink now through 2011. 5,171 cases made. |
|||
| PETER MICHAEL Les Pavots Knights Valley 1997 | 90 | $85 | |
| Supple and harmonious, aging gracefully, still offering ripe, fresh, generous plum and black cherry, shades of anise and green olive. Good depth, complexity and length, ending with dry tannins. Drink up. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2011. 4,351 cases made. |
|||
| ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 90 | $29 | |
| Graceful and harmonious, well proportioned, with supple, loamy currant, sage and a hint of lead pencil. Finishes with a long, deep aftertaste. Drink now through 2013. |
|||
| DARIOUSH Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Signature 1997 | 89 | $54 | |
| Aging well, with a mix of fresh, vibrant flavors, with some mature notes. Herb, dried cherry, anise, mineral and sage, with spicy oak, ending with a touch of anise. Drink now. 600 cases made. |
|||
| LEWIS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 1997 | 89 | $60 | |
| Still tight, concentrated and tannic, with chewy currant, anise, sage and cedary oak flavors. While youthful, the tannins are a potent presence. Best of three bottles. Drink now through 2012. 2,400 cases made. |
|||
| WHITEHALL LANE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 89 | $28 | |
| Firm, rich, focused, intense and concentrated, offering a complex range of earthy, loamy currant, black cherry and blueberry fruit that's fresh and lively, ending with a plush aftertaste and a hint of mint and anise. Best of two bottles. Drink now through 2015. 8,200 cases made. |
|||
| CAYMUS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $70 | |
| Tasted from magnum. Aromas of fresh dill and toast join ripe cherry and blackberry, with a touch of anise and sage. Elegantly styled, with a hint of sassafras, ending with ripe, integrated tannins. Drink now through 2013. 30,000 cases made. |
|||
| COLGIN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Herb Lamb Vineyard 1997 | 88 | $135 | |
| Well focused and holding up nicely, with a narrow band of dried currant, anise, sage and cedary oak. Supple, balanced and complex, with good length. Drying. Ready. Drink now through 2011. 400 cases made. |
|||
| DALLA VALLE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $80 | |
| Aging nicely. Well structured, firm and intense, with maturing currant and blackberry fruit that's fresh and lively. Graceful aftertaste. Still tannic. Drink now through 2012. 2,400 cases made. |
|||
| FISHER Coach Insignia Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $40 | |
| Rich and loamy, with fleshy currant, herb and sage, firming up on the finish, where it shows a cedary edge. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Drink now. 2,460 cases made. |
|||
| FLORA SPRINGS Trilogy Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $45 | |
| Earthy and spicy, with hints of tea, leather, wild berry and black cherry fruit that's still sweet, framed by firm but ripe tannins. Finishes with a hint of anise. Balanced, long and complex on the finish. Better of two bottles. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2011. 5,000 cases made. |
|||
| HARLAN ESTATE Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $225 | |
| Aromas of stewed plum, black cherry and a balsamic-cassis scent, which give it complex bouquet, though the balsamic is definitely a concern. Rich, polished, with a strong anise-cassis kirsch edge on the finish. Drink now through 2012. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 2,100 cases made. |
|||
| MERRYVALE Profile Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $85 | |
| Starts out smooth and rich, with creamy mocha and currant flavors. Concentrated and focused, the tannins gain weight on the finish, giving it a chewy aftertaste. Decant and drink now. The other two bottles were off. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now. 5,200 cases made. |
|||
| NIEBAUM-COPPOLA Rubicon Rutherford 1997 | 88 | $100 | |
| Mature and drying, with dried currant, anise, cedary oak and loamy sage notes that are complex and balanced, ending with fine-grained tannins. Best of two bottles. Drink now through 2011. 3,000 cases made. |
|||
| PAHLMEYER Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $80 | |
| Fresh and vibrant, with snappy red currant, herb, sage and mineral flavors that are focused and persistent. Best of two bottles. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Drink now. 1,900 cases made. |
|||
| QUINTESSA Rutherford 1997 | 88 | $95 | |
| Aging well. Elegant and understated, with dried currant, mineral, sage and loamy earth notes that are pleasant and well proportioned. Drink now through 2012. 4,500 cases made. |
|||
| SILVERADO VINEYARDS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Limited Reserve 1997 | 88 | $95 | |
| Fresh and aromatic, with perfumed currant and black cherry fruit shaded by light mocha, giving it depth and complexity. Texture is smooth until the finish, where the tannins weigh in, giving it grip. Second bottle was off. Drink now through 2011. 4,621 cases made. |
|||
| STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS Cask 23 Napa Valley 1997 | 88 | $150 | |
| Firm and complex, with loamy currant, anise, sage and dusty berry flavors. Intense, with mature Bordeaux-like qualities, it ends up leaving you hoping for a little more zest. Drink now through 2011. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,994 cases made. |
|||
| TRUCHARD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Carneros Reserve 1997 | 88 | $75 | |
| Tight and well structured, still with firm tannins but also good concentration to the earthy currant, herb and cedary oak flavors. More muscle than you typically get from Truchard. Drying out. Drink now through 2010. 297 cases made. |
|||
| VINE CLIFF Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Oakville Estate 1997 | 88 | $55 | |
| Smells more complex than it tastes, yet the ripe currant and black cherry fruit starts out plush yet tightens up, ending up with firm tannins that are dry with an anise edge. Best of two bottles. Drink now. 710 cases made. |
|||
| WHITEHALL LANE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Leonardini Vineyard 1997 | 88 | $75 | |
| Intense and drinking well, offering a mix of complex young and mature Cabernet flavors, hints of dried currant, lead pencil, herb and drying cedary oak. Ends with chalky-minty tannins and dusty oak. Drink now. 478 cases made. |
|||
| ARAUJO Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Eisele Vineyard 1997 | 87 | $125 | |
| Balanced, though short on depth, offering an appealing mix of dried currant, berry, cedar and anise, though it dries out and has a nutty edge on the finish. Drink now. 2,710 cases made. |
|||
| BARNETT Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District Peacock Family Vineyard 1997 | 87 | $60 | |
| Complex, with smoky oak, ripe sweet black cherry and currant flavors, hints of anise, cedar and spice, sage and mineral. Well focused if drying and austere on the finish. Drink now through 2011. 300 cases made. |
|||
| BERINGER Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Private Reserve 1997 | 87 | $100 | |
| Tight and well structured, with aromas, with fresh earth, herb, currant and dried berry. While young, it's still firmly tannic. Decant for now. Best of four bottles (two were oxidized). Drink now through 2012. 18,000 cases made. |
|||
| CONSTANT Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Vineyard 1997 | 87 | $125 | |
| Fresh and vibrant, with ripe, supple currant and black cherry fruit shaded by anise and lead pencil shavings, picking up a loamy dusty edge on the finish. Drink now through 2011. 575 cases made. |
|||
| CORNERSTONE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Cornerstone Vineyard 1997 | 87 | $45 | |
| Rich, herbal, plush and marked by deep dried currant and lead pencil flavors. Aging well, but leaves you hoping for a shade more fruit. Tasted twice. Drink now. 850 cases made. |
|||
| ETUDE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 87 | $70 | |
| Tasted from magnum. Rich and intense, well focused, with complex earth, currant, anise, cedar and mineral flavors that are drying up, giving the tannins the upper hand. Best of two bottles. Drink now. 2,000 cases made. |
|||
| FLORA SPRINGS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 20th Anniversary 1997 | 87 | NA | |
| Mature and complex, with a striking cedary-roasted coffee edge and dried cherry and currant fruit underneath. Balanced and supple, it's a shade past its prime. Tasted from 750ml bottle. Drink now. 200 cases made. |
|||
| PAUL HOBBS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Carneros Hyde Vineyard 1997 | 87 | $60 | |
| Pure, ripe black cherry, plum and berry notes are fresh and lively, well focused, complex and persistent. Elegant and stylish, the flavors are the same from start to finish. Best of two bottles. Drink now. 1,029 cases made. |
|||
| MERRYVALE Beckstoffer Vineyard Selection Napa Valley 1997 | 87 | $60 | |
| Rich and loamy, with lively currant, sage, underbrush and herb. Traces of mineral and spice, with a touch of funkiness, but in an pleasant way. Firms up and turns dry on the finish. Best of two bottles. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2012. 1,000 cases made. |
|||
| JOSEPH PHELPS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Backus Vineyard 1997 | 87 | $120 | |
| Mature complex aromas of stewed plum and black cherry turn drier on the palate, ending with a tobacco and lead pencil edge. A second bottle was much drier. Drink now. 800 cases made. |
|||
| RIDGE Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains 1997 | 87 | $120 | |
| While both bottles were mature and drying, the best offered a complex mix of earth, cedar and dried currant flavors supported by firm chewy tannins. Not up to its usual self. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2011. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 6,338 cases made. |
|||
| SILVER OAK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 87 | $100 | |
| Aromas of mint, dill and bay leaf are sleek and focused on the palate, joined by dry currant, lead pencil and cedar notes. Best of three bottles. Drink now. 17,000 cases made. |
|||
| SNOWDEN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 87 | $65 | |
| Firm and intense, with complex currant, berry, anise and mineral aromas. Tight and concentrated on the palate and the dried currant and mineral flavors are persistent on the finish, joined by chewy tannins. Tasted twice. Drink now through 2011. 1,208 cases made. |
|||
| ALTAMURA Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 86 | $54 | |
| Mature for its age, complex dried currant, anise and black cherry, tobacco and a hint of tea. Drink now. 3,000 cases made. |
|||
| CAKEBREAD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Vine Hill Ranch 1997 | 86 | $85 | |
| Fresh aromas of ripe black cherry and plum are elegant and smooth textured, but then it turns dry, cedary and tannic, an indication that it's drying out. Enjoy now. Drink now. 300 cases made. |
|||
| CAYMUS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection 1997 | 86 | $136 | |
| Tasted from magnum. Notable dill and tarry aromas are intense, with vivid blackberry and black cherry fruit, with touches of herb and cedar. Drink now. 2,000 cases made. |
|||
| CHAPPELLET Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard Napa Valley 1997 | 86 | $110 | |
| Best of three bottles, this one is intense, dry and tannic, with chewy currant, anise and cedary notes. The flavors are vibrant but the tannins are austere and gripping. Decant. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now. 1,150 cases made. |
|||
| DALLA VALLE Maya Napa Valley 1997 | 86 | $120 | |
| Intense and tannic, with a dry, leathery streak to the currant, mint, sage and berry notes. Tight and firm, it hasn't softened much or gained much complexity. Yet it's not tired. Tannins are the big issue. Two other bottles were unimpressive. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2011. 500 cases made. |
|||
| THE HESS COLLECTION Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 86 | $35 | |
| Aromas of spice, tobacco, cedar and cigar box join dried currant and cherry notes. Well balanced, a shade past its prime, ending with dry tannins. Drink now. 15,000 cases made. |
|||
| PARADIGM Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 1997 | 86 | $48 | |
| Sage, herb and dried currant take on a minty bay leaf edge, making this complex if within a narrow range of flavors. Drink now. 3,350 cases made. |
|||
| RISTOW Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Quinta de Pedras Vineyard 1997 | 86 | $50 | |
| Ripe black cherry and wild berry aromas taste sweet and supple, with lead pencil and shavings from cedary oak. Appealing and complex if on a modest scale. Comes up shy on depth. Drink now. 1,684 cases made. |
|||
| DAVID ARTHUR Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 85 | $60 | |
| Drying out, tight and concentrated but also quite tannic, with flavors built around dried-out black cherry, currant and anise flavors. Drink now through 2012. 900 cases made. |
|||
| BACIO DIVINO Napa Valley 1997 | 85 | $75 | |
| Aromas of minty currant and bay leaf carry over to the palate, with those flavors giving it a strong personality and making it a bit one-dimensional. Ends with minty tannins that are drying out. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Petite Sirah and Merlot. Drink now. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,000 cases made. |
|||
| HEITZ Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Martha's Vineyard 1997 | 85 | $140 | |
| The best of three bottles offered hints of ripe, fresh Cabernet fruit, along with more mature cried currant and bay leaf flavors creeping in, so enjoy it now. Ends with cedary tannins. Drink now. 5,620 cases made. |
|||
| LAUREL GLEN Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain 1997 | 85 | $50 | |
| Firm and intense, with herb, mineral, sage, dried currant and berry fruit flavors that hold their focus, ending with chewy tannins. Best of two bottles. Drink now through 2011. 2,000 cases made. |
|||
| STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley S.L.V. 1997 | 85 | $100 | |
| Complex, with rustic aromas of earth and loamy currant that turn drier, with a notable leathery streak. A touch of green bean. Still, it's harmonious and balanced. Drink now through 2013. 3,688 cases made. |
|||
| ARROWOOD Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 1997 | 84 | $45 | |
| DIAMOND CREEK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Volcanic Hill 1997 | 84 | $150 | |
| DUNN Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 1997 | 84 | $60 | |
| JUSTIN Isosceles Paso Robles 1997 | 84 | $40 | |
| ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 1997 | 84 | $120 | |
| SPRING MOUNTAIN Reserve Napa Valley 1997 | 84 | $90 | |
| ST. FRANCIS Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley Reserve 1997 | 84 | $40 | |
| MAYACAMAS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 83 | $55 | |
| ST. FRANCIS Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Kings Ridge Reserve 1997 | 83 | $85 | |
| STAGLIN Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 1997 | 83 | $65 | |
| CLOS PEGASE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Hommage Artist Series Reserve 1997 | 82 | $65 | |
| FREEMARK ABBEY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1997 | 82 | $26 | |
| FREEMARK ABBEY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Bosché Estate 1997 | 82 | $65 | |
| GROTH Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Reserve 1997 | 82 | $135 | |
| SILVER OAK Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 1997 | 82 | $60 | |
| STERLING Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 1997 | 82 | $75 | |
| BURGESS Enveiere Napa Valley 1997 | 81 | $85 | |
| PINE RIDGE Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 1997 | 80 | $50 | |
Advertisement
