Blog Index
James Suckling
The “Little Wines” of 2005
Posted: 12:38 PM ET, 12/10/07
I had dinner last night at Table du Lavoir, which is the relaxed restaurant at the hotel where I am staying to taste the 2005s – Les Sources de Caudalie. I invited some hipster winemakers from the Right Bank, whom I consider some of the best in the business, including Denis Durantou of Pomerol’s Église-Clinet, Alexandre Thienpont of Pomerol’s Le Pin and Vieux-Château-Certan (VCC), and consulting enologist Stephane Derenoncourt, who works at Canon-La-Gaffelière, La Mondotte, Petit-Village and many others. Read more
James Molesworth
Bernie Gassin: 1924–2007
Posted: 10:32 PM ET, 12/08/07
Bernard A. Gassin never really did understand how I made a living out of writing about and drinking wine. Born in 1924, Bernie had a bit of a Depression-era mentality, and he always wanted to make sure things were OK for his family.
During one of my early meetings with him—it was more like an interview—he quizzed me about my curious line of work since, after all, I was dating his daughter. Read more
Bruce Sanderson
Stepping Back in Time
Posted: 03:38 PM ET, 12/07/07
A week ago I visited Maria-Teresa Mascarello at Bartolo Mascarello in Barolo. Mascarello’s is a traditional, no-frills operation: cement fermentation tanks, a basket press and nothing but large oak casks. It looked like nothing had changed in the last 50 years. Read more
James Laube
Tasting The Donum Estate Pinot Noirs
Posted: 02:15 PM ET, 12/07/07
With harvest 2007 completed, there’s a pause in the action at Donum Estate in Carneros, and yesterday I joined Anne Moller-Racke and Kenneth Juhasz to taste a vertical of the winery’s Pinot Noir.
Donum is a fairly new winery, with its first vintage in 2001. Read more
James Suckling
Yquem for Breakfast?
Posted: 01:51 PM ET, 12/07/07
I was thinking this morning as I was getting into my first few 2005s in the tasting room of Les Sources de Caudalie that I probably won’t be tasting 1,000 reds in a couple of years when the 2007 Bordeaux are coming into the market in bottle. I don’t want to say that the region’s most recent harvest is bad, but let’s just say it isn’t going to be easy to find outstanding wines like in 2005. Read more
James Suckling
Just Another Day in Bordeaux
Posted: 03:14 PM ET, 12/06/07
I wrote this first thing this morning when I started tasting a range of wine, before going to a tasting and lunch at Léoville Las Cases, the second growth St. Julien:
"It’s always a bit difficult for me to get started in the morning. Read more
Bruce Sanderson
Remembering Two of Austria's Finest
Posted: 01:42 PM ET, 12/06/07
Austria lost two of its winegrowers this week, Alois Kracher, Jr., 48 and Erich Salomon, 64. Both succumbed to cancer.
For many, Luis Kracher was the face of Austrian wine. Though he and his family specialized in dessert wines from vineyards around Illmitz, on the shores of Lake Neusiedl, Kracher was a passionate and tireless promoter of all Austrian wines. Read more
Harvey Steiman
Food Guy Discovers Wine
Posted: 12:37 PM ET, 12/06/07
A couple of years ago I chatted with Christopher Kimball, the bow-tied host of "America's Test Kitchen" on PBS, and asked him about his interest in wine. I had noted that he had brushed off any particular fascination with wine as he sampled some candidates for cooking wines on camera. Read more
James Suckling
2005 Bordeaux and Fort Knox
Posted: 02:23 PM ET, 12/05/07
I had dinner last night at what might be considered a Fort Knox of old Bordeaux, the wine merchants of Mahler-Besse in city of Bordeaux. The small firm has become the torchbearer for fine old bottles from the region. If an old bottle of Bordeaux has the Mahler-Besse strip label on it, you can be assured that it has been kept in perfect condition in its cellar and, more than likely, it was bought from the château, shipped to its cellar, and never moved again until being sold. Read more
Bruce Sanderson
A Barolo Icon
Posted: 01:57 PM ET, 12/05/07
Last Thursday I visited with Giacomo Conterno of Podere Aldo Conterno, located in the hamlet of Bussia Soprana, just outside Montforte d’Alba.
It was there I got a geology lesson in the landscape of the Langhe. The ridges of the Langhe were formed during the Miocene epoch of the Tertiary period, about 15 million to 7 million years ago. Read more
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