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November 2007
Two Interpretations of Nebbiolo
Posted: 03:07 AM ET, November 30, 2007
Tuesday I visited two wineries with very different interpretations of Nebbiolo. These might be considered the two extremes in style. Both make delicious Barolos.
The wines of Conterno Fantino are fermented in stainless steel rotofermentors and aged in 100 percent new French oak barriques. Read more
The Vietti Touch
Posted: 03:48 AM ET, November 29, 2007
For lunch Monday we dined at La Ciau del Tornavento, a hilltop restaurant with beautiful view looking out over the Langhe and off to the Alps in the distance. The restaurant holds a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence and offers more than 2,000 selections, primarily from Piedmont. Read more
Barolo 101
Posted: 03:44 AM ET, November 28, 2007
I had more geography lessons on Monday, this time courtesy of Luca Currado of Vietti. The Vietti cellars are located in the heart of Castiglione Falletto. From the terrace outside, there is a good view of the western part of the zone.
There are three main ridges where the best vineyard exposures are located. Read more
The Lay of the Land
Posted: 03:17 AM ET, November 27, 2007
I came to Piedmont, and specifically Barolo, to get a better understanding of the wines. The first Nebbiolo I recall that made an impression on me was a Barbaresco Riserva 1974 from a producer called Gemma, if I remember correctly. That was 20 years ago, in Hamburg, Germany. Read more
Exploring the Terroirs of La Morra
Posted: 03:13 AM ET, November 26, 2007
Roberto Voerzio is a passionate vigneron. He is the first Barolo winemaker to earn a perfect 100-point score, for his Barolo Brunate 1997. The 2007 harvest was his 21st and he currently farms 30 acres around the village of La Morra.
Voerzio is meticulous in the vineyards. Read more
The Long Day’s Journey Into Night
Posted: 03:54 AM ET, November 25, 2007
I finally arrived in La Morra, in Barolo, Friday evening. It was a long trip and mostly uneventful, although the drive from Milan’s Malpensa airport took a little longer than I had expected.
By the time I took the Asti exit in the direction of Alba, it was getting dark. Read more
Barolo and Truffles
Posted: 04:42 PM ET, November 21, 2007
I am curious, like my colleague James Suckling, what the fuss is about truffles. So I’m traveling to Piedmont to find out firsthand for myself.
It’s a region that has long interested me. I’ll be staying in the Barolo zone and visiting a few producers of Barolo and Barbaresco. Read more
Exploring the Diversity of German Wine
Posted: 08:52 AM ET, November 20, 2007
If you haven’t tried a dry German Riesling recently, you owe it to yourself to take another look. There are some excellent wines currently available.
It helps that the past 3 out of 4 vintages—2003, 2005 and 2006—have been favorable for dry wine production. Read more
Finding the Invisible In Wine
Posted: 10:37 AM ET, November 15, 2007
I had lunch a few weeks ago with Richard Geoffroy, the erudite and fascinating chef de cave of Moët & Chandon’s Cuvée Dom Pérignon. He had organized a tasting for me to showcase some recent vintages, some of which will be designated for the Oenothèque program, along with some current and past Oenothèque bottlings. Read more
A Closer Look At Cristal
Posted: 02:43 PM ET, November 09, 2007
Louis Roederer’s Cristal is one of the most prestigious and widely recognized prestige cuvées from Champagne. Yet, often in my blind tastings, it doesn’t stand out.
Although the 2000 and 1999 vintages rated outstanding (91 points), I rated the 1997 88 points and the 1996 initially 90 points, before giving it 94 points a year later. Read more
Two New Champagnes from Pommery
Posted: 01:38 PM ET, November 07, 2007
Champagne Pommery will release two new cuvées in the United States early next year.
The Brut Blanc de Blancs Summertime NV and Brut Blanc de Noirs Wintertime NV are new blends from Pommery’s vice president and winemaker Thierry Gasco. Read more
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