Harvey Steiman's Blog Archives
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May 2006
D'Arenberg Redux
Posted: 10:04 AM ET, May 09, 2008
Last year I blogged about my disappointment in recent vintages of d'Arenberg's high-end wines—Dead Arm Shiraz, Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon and Laughing Magpie, a Shiraz-Viognier. I said that I felt owner winemaker Chester Osborn had taken a wrong turn in his quest to make the Australian wines more French in style. Read more
Ask the Editors
Posted: 10:16 AM ET, May 30, 2006
This week, I'll be taking my turn at "Ask the Editors." Today and tomorrow (May 30-31: This post is now closed to questions), you can ask me questions on any area I cover for Wine Spectator. Read more
Family Dinner From Thomas Keller
Posted: 08:09 PM ET, May 25, 2006
Thomas Keller's newest restaurant, scheduled to open in July, is going to feature home cooking. At least for now. Keller expects to revamp the whole thing next spring.
In March, when the chef-owner of America's most-lauded restaurant bought another space a few blocks away from his original, no one could quite figure out what he was going to do with it. Read more
Move Over, Cloudy Bay
Posted: 12:28 PM ET, May 23, 2006
For years, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc was the gold standard for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It's still good, but, for the past couple of vintages, a different wine has jumped out at me from my blind tastings as the most dramatic, most complete and harmonious of them all. Read more
Folonari to Make Wine in Washington
Posted: 12:22 PM ET, May 19, 2006
Ambrogio Folonari and his son Giovanni are the newest figures from outside the state to make wine in Washington as part of a group of joint ventures with Allen Shoup's new Long Shadows operation. Their first wine, a Sangiovese-based red, was made in 2005 and could be released next year. Read more
Upheaval Behind the Scenes in Australia
Posted: 01:44 PM ET, May 15, 2006
If you read the Australian press, an enormous sword hangs over its wine industry. From this side of the Pacific Ocean, it looks as if the country delivers wines at all points on the price spectrum that over-deliver on quality. In Australia, they're worried that they may have overdone it. Read more
Surprises on Coi's Little Wine List
Posted: 06:31 PM ET, May 10, 2006
New, high-end restaurants with aspirations for their food usually try to put together a serious wine list. Coi, the tiny new San Francisco restaurant from outspoken chef Daniel Patterson, offers only 40 wines, at least for now.
At first I couldn't believe that the two loose pages the server placed next to my menu constituted the entire range of wine choices on the inaugural list. Read more
Partner, It's Moderner
Posted: 07:04 PM ET, May 08, 2006
One of the raps against the modern style of winemaking--primarily meaning forward fruit, polished texture and maybe some prominent oak--is that it makes all wine taste alike. My colleague James Suckling touched on it in his blog, wondering whether calling a wine "international" in style has a negative connotation. Read more
Tax on Restaurant Service Charge? It's a Double Whammy
Posted: 01:43 PM ET, May 06, 2006
Until now, I have had no objection to restaurants that tack on an automatic service charge in lieu of a tip. Usually it's 15 to 18 percent. I normally leave 20 percent for good service anyway, so it's no skin off my nose. If the service charge is less than 20 percent, I usually add a few dollars to get to the total. Read more
Quilceda Creek Loses Its Grip--and That's a Good Thing
Posted: 05:43 PM ET, May 02, 2006
Although I returned from Washington a few weeks ago, I am still thinking about my visit with the Golitzin family at their Quilceda Creek winery. This has always ranked among the best Washington wines, but no winery's style has evolved quite so dramatically. Read more
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