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Harvey Steiman's Blog Archives

July 2008


Andrew Will Shows What It Has

I don't know whether to file this under "mea culpa" or "pleasant surprises." At dinner the other night with some musician friends, I ordered a bottle of Andrew Will Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2001, a Bordeaux blend from Washington. Read more


Australia's Colonial Wines Take a Step Up

Someone from outside can make some fascinating wines in a different region. All those Champagne houses changed the style of sparkling wine in California, and, most famously, Baron de Rothschild got together with Robert Mondavi to make Opus One in Napa Valley, bringing a different sense of legitimacy to California Cabernet. Read more


What Makes Wine Worth It?

The topic of price vs. quality in wine keeps coming up, and not just among savvy wine drinkers looking for the most bang for their buck when they buy a bottle. Last week, Steven D. Levitt, an economics professor, made a pretty bold assertion in his Freakanomics blog for the New York Times. Read more


When Cocktails Are Better Than Wine

A sommelier can make a multi-course dinner special by finding a great wine-and-food pairing for each dish. In the past few years, in pursuit of the perfect match, some sommeliers have strayed outside this wine-only boundary.

The latest trend is to create cocktails to go with specific dishes, a new frontier in choosing something to drink with dinner. Read more


What to Drink with Hamachi

Hamachi, that sushi bar staple, has a distinctive flavor. White wine, it would seem, should serve it best. It's kind of a fishy-tasting fish, the sort of thing, like mackerel, that make a red wine taste odd.

So imagine my surprise when, about halfway through our tasting menu at Restaurant Charlie in Las Vegas, sommelier Desmond Echevarre brought out a red wine to serve with seared hamachi belly. Read more


Many Faces of Dessert Wines

I like dessert wines, a confession that should come as no shock to longtime readers. I even like to drink sweet wines with savory food, especially cheese. Sweet wines go well with spicy dishes and those that have some fruit or other sweet elements, but when they're good, they don't need food to complete to the picture. Read more


New World Not-Port?

What do you call a sweet red wine that's had some alcohol added to it to bring it up to about 20 percent? If you said Port, you're soon going to be behind the times. Australia, which makes some of the world's finest fortified wines, including stuff it has been calling Port, has concluded an agreement with the European Union to desist in using names like Port and Sherry for their fortified wines. Read more



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