Harvey Steiman's Blog Archives

September 2006

The Michelin Betting Line

Posted: 11:43 AM ET, September 28, 2006

Michelin releases its Red Guide to the restaurants of San Francisco and environs next week. Having just published my take on the state of S.F. dining in the current issue of Wine Spectator (Oct 15, 2006), I have more than a casual interest in seeing what the Michelin inspectors come up with. Read more

Surprises Tasting at Argyle

Posted: 11:04 PM ET, September 26, 2006

Every time I visit fun-loving Rollin Soles at Argyle winery in Oregon, he has some interesting tastings set up for me. This time, he has a vast assortment of freshly pressed juices, barrel samples from the 2005 vintage, and a previous vintages bottled under cork and screwcap for a blind comparison. Read more

Oregon, With Some Age

Posted: 03:20 AM ET, September 26, 2006

I tasted some older wines while in Oregon last week, visiting winemakers in Willamette Valley. What strikes me, looking over my notes, is how consistently good they all were. Of course, what vintner would show a bad wine to a visiting journalist?

The greatest number of bottles showed up at dinner with David Millman, general manager of Domaine Drouhin, and Tony Rynders, winemaker at Domaine Serene. Read more

Goodbye, Belles Soeurs

Posted: 02:46 AM ET, September 25, 2006

For years, the Oregon winery Beaux Frères used the Belles Soeurs label for all its non-estate wines, but no more. Starting with the 2005 vintage, all of the non-estate wines will carry the Beaux Frères label with a subhead: "The Willamette Valley. Read more

Domaine Serene Changes the Oregon Landscape

Posted: 11:04 PM ET, September 21, 2006

Domaine Serene shattered a big price barrier when it released an ultra-premium Oregon PInot Noir, Monogram 2002, at $200 a bottle earlier this year. Next up is a white wine from Pinot Noir, made to sell for $60.

Domaine Serene hits several home runs every vintage with its Pinot Noirs, including the mainstay Evenstad Reserve. Read more

The Zuni Cork Incident

Posted: 01:15 AM ET, September 19, 2006

If you're tired of hearing about cork problems, skip this post, but this story is too good not to relate, even though I have been on a bit of an anti-cork soapbox lately.

At Zuni Cafe, one of San Francisco's most congenial restaurants, I am having lunch with Australian winemaker Natasha Mooney, a partner in Barossa Valley's Fox Gordon winery. Read more

Life Is Good for Clarendon's Bratasiuk

Posted: 02:43 AM ET, September 15, 2006

Clarendon Hills makes some of the most expensive wine in Australia. Owner Roman Bratasiuk only makes single-vineyard Syrah (he won't call it Shiraz), Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. Astralis, his signature Syrah, goes for $325. Other single-vineyard Syrahs (plural) are $100, most of the Grenaches $61. Read more

Corks on Shaky Ground

Posted: 11:55 AM ET, September 13, 2006

I've been around long enough to know a leading question when I see one, but this one took me aback it was so breathtaking. It was on an e-mail survey purporting to ask about consumer attitudes about cork vs. other wine bottle closures. It said: "What do you like most about cork over synthetic and screw cap closures?"

The only answers possible were "a. Read more

When It Comes to Great Wine, Puck Takes His Cut

Posted: 12:01 AM ET, September 11, 2006

So many restaurateurs and sommeliers gripe and grumble about customers who bring in wines that it was refreshing to hear Wolfgang Puck say, "I don't care, as long as they give me a taste."

We were talking about his new Beverly Hills steakhouse, Cut, which has been open since June. Read more

How the West Was Lost

Posted: 05:39 PM ET, September 07, 2006

Normally, I don't like to dump on restaurants because of a single visit, but this story is too good. It involves a world-renowned opera singer, a new Los Angeles steakhouse, some unpleasant surprises on the wine list and a wildly overcooked steak.

This is why I won't be officially reviewing West, a rooftop restaurant in Brentwood that bills itself as an Italian steakhouse. Read more

Making Wine When Life Gives You Lemonade

Posted: 02:05 PM ET, September 05, 2006

Duncan McGillivray made a success of Two Dogs, an Australian brand of alcoholic lemonade, and a chain of brewpubs in Australia. When he sold it all to Pernod-Ricard in 1995, he finally had enough money to do what he always wanted: plant a vineyard and make wine. Read more

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