Top 10 Tasting
Wines from the Old World and the New share the spotlight
By Eric Arnold
A gray, drizzly Saturday morning was transformed into a magical day when it came time for the tasting of Wine Spectator's Top 10 wines of 2004. The wines and their producers represented the best from places familiar and far-flung, showing that the balance between sense of place and refined technique is becoming more common all over the winemaking world.
In 2004, six countries were represented in the Top 10. While France, Italy and California tend to dominate from year to year, in 2004 Chile made its second straight appearance in the Top 10 and Spain made its third, with Australia rounding out the elite group.
"We look for wines that are both exciting and make a unique contribution to the world of wine," said Wine Spectator senior editor and tasting director Bruce Sanderson, explaining that the editors blind-taste the worthy candidates and then choose the Top 10 based on quality, price, availability and the "X-factor" of excitement.
Leading off the tasting was the Greg Norman Estates Shiraz South Eastern Australia Reserve 1999 (96 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, $40 per bottle, No. 8), which was presented by its namesake, famed golfer Greg Norman, and its original craftsman, Wolf Blass' chief winemaker, Chris Hatcher. (Andrew Hales now makes the Greg Norman wines.) "As I played [golf] on a global basis for many years, I had the opportunity to go and see the many great vineyards around the world," Norman said. Eventually, he realized that to make a great wine he need look no further than home. The 1999 Reserve is a blend from two sites, the old vines of Mt. Ida's Coppermine Vineyard in Victoria and another vineyard in Coonawarra. In the 1999 vintage, Coppermine produced only about three-quarters of a ton per acre. While that provided the wine's concentration, Hatcher said, "We blended the Coonawarra into it to get the style and elegance."
Next up was Numanthia-Termes Toro Termes 2002 (93 points, $24, No. 3), made from a clone of Tempranillo. Sanderson called the Termes "a modern interpretation of a wine from a historic region," as in its infancy the winery was able to buy old, ungrafted vineyards. The weather during 2002 often swung dramatically, yet "it is with this roller-coaster of temperature situations that we managed to have balanced grapes," said Jorge Ordonez, a partner in the winery. The packed house gave loud cheers when Ordonez said that for this label, which is exported entirely to the United States, there are no plans to increase the price to capitalize on the high score.
Chile was represented by Casa Lapostolle and its French owner Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle, who was appearing for her second year in a Top 10. The Clos Apalta Colchagua 2001 (95 points, $55, No. 2) is a blend of Carmenère, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from an exceptional vintage. "At the beginning of spring, the vines started to slowly go into a process of stress, and then from October to March we had a great growing season-everything was perfect," said Marnier-Lapostolle. The wine exhibits a peppery note that she attributed to both the Carmenère as well as the cool climate in which the grapes are grown.
Two wines from Italy came next. Paolo Scavino co-owner Enrica Scavino presented the intense, rich Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 2000 (98 points, $105, No. 4), calling the hot, dry vintage "marvelous." Anticipating a question she is often asked-when is the right time to drink the wine?-she said, "When you prefer to drink the wine is a question that only you can answer. A great wine should always be great."
Giovanni Manetti, owner of Fontodi, spoke as highly of the 2001 vintage in Tuscany as his countrywoman did of 2000 in Barolo. He described the Fontodi Colli della Toscana Centrale Flaccianello 2001 (97 points, $69, No. 10) as a rich, complex Sangiovese with aromas of dark cherries, violets, minerals and spices that will be at its best in five to 10 years, but can be cellared for up to 20. As if the wine weren't enough to endear Manetti to the crowd, he invited everyone in the room to visit his winery-"but please, not all on the same day."
Another Italian wine, No. 6 in the Top 10, was not represented during this tasting, as the Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Toscana Masseto 2001 (100 points, $250) was poured at the Masseto tasting the day before.
Two Cabernet Sauvignons, tasted next, needed little introduction: the Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2001 (96 points, $155, No. 7) and the Peter Michael Les Pavots Knights Valley 2001 (98 points, $115, No. 5). Though the 2001 Lafite is easily overshadowed by the stellar 2000 vintage, estate owner Baron Eric de Rothschild said, "It's a perfect Lafite because it's not a very expensive Lafite, yet it's incredibly delicious."
The crowd better appreciated the accomplishment of Peter Michael's wine after hearing from the founder about what he had to go through to produce it. He planted his first 18 acres on a rootstock that was "definitely resistant to phylloxera. I checked with all the authorities," Michael said, jokingly, of AXR-1. "The only people I didn't check with were the French. They knew it wasn't resistant. But being French, they didn't tell anyone." The obstacles were eventually overcome, and this wine, from a classic California vintage, is rich and delicately balanced, and perhaps stood out even more since it's the first time a small amount of Petit Verdot was added to the blend to achieve a classic Bordeaux style.
Rounding out the Top 10 were two Sauternes from 2001, a classic vintage in the region. Representing the Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2001 (98 points, $65, No. 9) was managing director Christian Seely, who pointed out that one of the winery's vineyards is next door to Chateau d'Yquem. "I often mention that, but they never mention me ... I don't know why," Seely remarked jokingly. However, 2001 being an exceptional year for the appellation, Suduiraut produced a wine of extraordinary complexity and ageability on par with that of its neighbor-and at a fraction of the price. "When you have a year like 2001, when all the conditions are right ... you really have the impression that something rather wonderful and special has been given to you," he said.
The Chateau Rieussec Sauternes 2001 (100 points, $80, No. 1), owned by Lafite Rothschild, clearly stood out as the wine of the year. "You have this balance of the acidity and the sweetness, which makes them absolutely delicious wines to be drunk at anytime," said Rothschild of Sauternes as a whole. But Rieussec's relatively affordable price at release made it taste that much sweeter, and there was no better way to conclude this tasting of exceptional wines.
